At its root movement originates from the mind in response to sensory input. Increased sensitivity leads to richer proprioception which in turn leads to better body positioning and engaged movement. When moving from stability you leverage the body’s uprighting reflex. Your position feels secure, holds feel solid and in-reach, and you are able to move effortlessly towards the next one. When your mind detects insecurity it compensates accordingly by tensing your body in preparation for fight or flight. Feet feel questionable and the next hold can seem to be moving away from you as your mind tries to keep you from danger by getting your body to the ground. Rather than fight fear you can use it as a signal to find a better way to move.

Stability is found through the balance of forces. We climb most effectively as a connected whole rather than with individual appendages. It is more like walking along a wall rather than standing on two feet and pulling yourself up it. The feet and hands are connected in opposition, the feeling more quadrupedal than bipedal. The movement chain starts at the feet in the tips of the big and little toes and connects all the way out through the fingertips and head.

Climbing well involves applying the right level of effort as you move. There is power required to consistently engage through the movement chain, but just enough is needed for the task at hand and is often less than you think. From the outside this can appear to be the relaxed and effortless motion of a strong climber. However, strength comes not just from the muscles but from the mind. We already have the strength we need for much of our climbing without intense exertion. What we usually lack is a stable position and the right engagement. Rather than power through every section and slump into hanging rests you can move fluidly and save your strength for the crux.

As with practicing a musical instrument, it is best to train frequently at less than maximum difficulty and speed in order to focus on the utmost quality, sensitivity, feeling, and flow. Look for subtlety and take the time to reinforce better movement patterns. Over time you can increase the load by adding coordination, speed, strength, and endurance training, but not at the expense of good technique. That is the foundation on which the rest is built. Push boundaries slowly and they will shift naturally over time. As you raise the consistent baseline so too will rise the erratic peaks. Eventually you may find more satisfaction in climbing well than in simply climbing hard.

• Just Be - focus on one move at a time, let go of expectations, above all have fun
• Visualize - read ahead, look for target body positions, be as specific as you can
• Personalize - find the beta that works for your body and makes it feel easy
• Flow - seek out positivity, move more intentionally and less intensely
• Rest - give your muscles time to recharge and your mind time to work the problem
• Integrate - you can’t leave what you are feeling behind, find a way to incorporate it
• Observe - there is something to learn from every route and partner
• Confidence - go with a lightly-held intention, “I got this” rather than “I have to get this”
• Levity - mistakes just show you what to work on, the rest comes in time with practice
• Perspective - breathe, reset your body, and zoom out